Twenty-four questions every serious diamond buyer should ask before commissioning a bespoke piece — answered honestly by the team that designs, sources, and fabricates them.
Before you ever discuss color grades or settings, three questions decide whether a lab-grown diamond is the right choice for you at all.
Yes. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically, physically, and optically identical to mined diamonds. They are pure crystalline carbon with the same Mohs hardness of 10, the same refractive index of 2.417, and the same brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The Federal Trade Commission updated its Jewelry Guides in 2018 to confirm that a diamond is a diamond regardless of whether it grew above ground or below it. Only the origin differs.
There are two production methods. High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) replicates the natural diamond-forming conditions inside the Earth's mantle — extreme pressure and heat applied to a carbon source around a diamond seed crystal. Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) uses a heated carbon-rich gas in a vacuum chamber where carbon atoms settle layer by layer onto a diamond seed. Both methods produce identical end-product diamonds. The typical growth time is two to four weeks for a one-to-two carat stone.
No. Lab-grown diamonds cannot be distinguished from mined diamonds by sight, by touch, by a jeweler's loupe, or by standard diamond testers. Specialized equipment available only to gemological laboratories can detect subtle growth markers in the crystal structure to determine origin — but that equipment is not used in retail settings.
The diamond looks, weighs, and behaves identically to a mined stone of the same grade. The grading report identifies origin in writing; the stone itself does not.
Lab-grown diamonds avoid the historic ethical concerns associated with diamond mining — conflict diamonds, labor exploitation in mining communities, and the human and environmental cost of large-scale earth extraction. They also have a smaller per-carat environmental footprint than mining when produced using renewable energy.
That said, lab-growing is energy-intensive and not all producers source clean energy. Buyers who prioritize verifiable sustainability should ask their atelier about the energy source of the producing lab. For most buyers, lab-grown represents a meaningful step away from the historical concerns of the mined-diamond industry.
Every diamond is evaluated by the same four criteria. Knowing them well is what separates a confident buyer from an overwhelmed one.
GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and IGI (International Gemological Institute) are the two most respected independent grading laboratories. Both grade lab-grown diamonds using the same 4Cs framework.
GIA reports are considered the global gold standard for natural diamonds and are increasingly common for lab-grown stones; IGI dominates the lab-grown market by volume. For consumer purposes, both are equally reliable. RSAAIDIAMONDS accepts and works with both, and the certificate number appears in text on every production sketch.
The 4Cs are the universal grading framework for all diamonds, lab-grown or mined.
Carat measures weight (one carat equals 0.2 grams).
Color grades the absence of color on a scale from D (completely colorless) through Z (light yellow or brown); D-F are colorless, G-J are near-colorless.
Clarity grades the absence of internal inclusions and surface blemishes on a scale from FL (flawless) through I3 (heavily included); VS1, VS2, and SI1 are common quality-versus-value choices.
Cut grades the quality of the diamond's facets, proportions, and polish — Excellent or Ideal cut produces the most brilliance regardless of other grades.
For most engagement rings, F to G color with VS1 to VS2 clarity offers the optimal balance of visible beauty and value. At F color the stone reads as fully colorless to the unaided eye; G color reads colorless when set.
Going higher (D-E color or FL-IF clarity) pays a premium for differences invisible in everyday wear. Going lower (H-I color or SI clarity) can yield equally beautiful stones at lower cost if cut grade is excellent. We help select within the right range for each specific commission.
Round brilliant remains the most popular engagement ring shape, accounting for roughly 60% of engagement ring commissions. Oval cuts have grown rapidly and now represent about 15%. Cushion, pear, emerald, and princess each account for smaller but meaningful shares.
The right shape for any commission depends on the wearer's hand, finger length, style preference, and the visual effect they want — elongating shapes like oval and pear can make a hand appear more slender; round and cushion are timeless.
The honest answers to the questions buyers usually only ask after they've already spent. We prefer to give them before.
Lab-grown diamonds typically cost 30% to 40% less than equivalently graded mined diamonds at the same carat, color, clarity, and cut grade. The savings come from a shorter, more controlled supply chain.
Honestly, no. Lab-grown diamonds — like mined diamonds for most consumers — should not be purchased as an investment. The secondary market for any diamond is limited and resale typically returns 20% to 50% of purchase price even years later.
Lab-grown diamond prices have been declining year-over-year as production scales. Purchase a diamond because you want to wear it, give it, or pass it down — not because you expect it to grow in financial value.
A great stone in the wrong setting is a missed opportunity. A modest stone in the right setting can be unforgettable.
A stock engagement ring is pre-designed, pre-fabricated, and sold off the shelf — the same design appears on many people's hands. A custom or bespoke ring is designed and built specifically for the wearer.
RSAAIDIAMONDS works exclusively in the bespoke model. We hold no inventory; every piece is built to commission.
The three most common choices are platinum, 18-karat white gold, and 18-karat yellow gold.
Platinum is the most durable, naturally white, hypoallergenic, and the heaviest in hand — premium feel.
18-karat white gold is similar in appearance to platinum at lower cost but requires rhodium re-plating every 2-4 years.
18-karat yellow gold pairs warmly with colorless diamonds and is the traditional choice for heirloom pieces.
A solitaire setting features a single center stone held in prongs with no surrounding accent stones — the cleanest, most classic engagement ring style.
A halo setting surrounds the center stone with a ring of smaller diamonds (pavé), making the center stone appear larger.
A three-stone setting flanks the center stone with two smaller diamonds, often interpreted as past-present-future.
RSAAIDIAMONDS commissions range from 0.5 carat center stones up to 5+ carat statement pieces. The most common commission falls between 1.0 and 2.5 carats for engagement rings.
For statement pieces above 4 carats, sourcing windows extend slightly because the supply of higher-grade large stones is more limited.
How a piece moves from your first conversation with Dia to a finished commission in your hand. Six weeks, two sketches, four people you'll interact with.
After the design is approved and the deposit received, our founder Curtis Martin and his senior team source the center stone from our confidential network of sixteen vetted suppliers. Each supplier specializes in different cuts, sizes, or grade ranges.
We do not hold inventory — every stone is sourced specifically for the commission, presented for the customer's personal approval before acquisition. Once approved and acquired, an updated production sketch with the actual stone's certificate number is generated.
From initial consultation to finished piece in hand, the typical timeline is four to six weeks. The phases: design consultation and concept sketch (1-3 days), client approval and 50% deposit (same day), stone sourcing 1-2 weeks, production sketch and fabrication authorization 1 week, bench fabrication 2-3 weeks, final inspection and delivery.
Yes. The bespoke commission flow includes two distinct sketches. The first (concept) sketch is delivered before deposit and shows the design rendered to your specifications. After deposit and stone acquisition, the second (production) sketch is generated using the actual acquired stone — with its real measurements, its GIA or IGI grading report number, and the assigned bench jeweler's name.
If the acquired stone is not what you envisioned, sourcing continues until a stone is found that you are genuinely happy with.
All RSAAIDIAMONDS pieces are fabricated by master bench jewelers in our Maryland atelier network. The specific bench jeweler is selected per commission based on the design complexity, the timeline, and current capacity. The assigned jeweler's name appears on the production sketch.
We do not outsource fabrication overseas.
Begin by speaking with our Design Concierge Dia Wellington on rsaaidiamonds.com. Dia is a London-trained gemologist with two decades of experience in Hatton Garden.
After Dia confirms your design direction, our Master Atelier Stanford Greenburg presents your concept sketch for review. Our Order Concierge Maya Montgomery then handles the deposit, sourcing communication, and final delivery coordination.
The entire process is typically four to six weeks. There is no fee to begin a consultation.
What happens after you say yes to the sketch — and how to keep what you've commissioned looking brilliant for the next forty years.
Commissions begin with a 50% deposit upon sketch approval, with the remaining 50% due upon delivery. The deposit invoice is sent via Mercury Bank and accepts credit card, debit card, ACH bank transfer, or wire transfer.
The deposit funds stone sourcing and bench fabrication; the balance covers final inspection, finishing, and delivery.
RSAAIDIAMONDS itself does not extend financing. However, the Mercury Bank invoice accepts all major credit cards, which gives customers the option to use their existing credit-card financing.
For commissions above $20,000, we can discuss customized payment schedules. Curtis Martin handles these conversations personally.
Bespoke commissions are non-returnable and non-refundable once fabrication has begun, because each piece is built specifically for the customer. This is why our process includes two separate approval gates — the concept sketch (before deposit) and the production sketch (before fabrication).
If a piece arrives with a manufacturing defect or does not match the approved production sketch, we repair or remake the piece at no cost.
Currently RSAAIDIAMONDS commissions ship to addresses in the United States. International shipping for completed pieces may be arranged on request for customers whose primary residence is in the US. Curtis Martin handles international logistics personally on a case-by-case basis.
Care is identical to a mined-diamond ring.
Clean weekly with warm water, a drop of mild dish soap, and a soft toothbrush.
Avoid wearing the ring during heavy lifting, gardening, household cleaning with harsh chemicals, or contact sports.
Professional maintenance: Have prong tension checked every 12 to 18 months. For white gold pieces, plan on rhodium re-plating every 2 to 4 years.
Storage: Store the ring separately from other jewelry to prevent scratches.
Speak with our Concierge. No appointment required. No fee to consult. The conversation lives entirely on your terms.
Concierge